To get ready for the real world, we have to teach our dogs different skills. We start by reducing any pulling, then give our leash cues, commands, and movement meaning. After that, we focus on giving your dog a purpose (tasks and jobs it enjoys) alongside different types of walks.

Types of walks and Tune-up drills

When I begin working with students and their dogs, my first priority is to teach them how to walk on a loose leash on the left side. As we establish engagement, we can then introduce the Heel position by reinforcing that stance on the right side. 

• Casual Walk (Loose Leash) vs. Advance Walk Obedience (Heel)
• Loose leash walking on the left side , Can evolve into off-leash freedom
• Heel position on the right side, Reinforced through food games, toys or leash pressure, can advance to off-leash heel position.

Loose leash walking can evolve into off-leash freedom, while the heel can also progress to an off-leash heel position. I typically employ two methods to train the heel position: I start with food games as rewards before transitioning to toys, or I use leash pressure as a form of reinforcement. The approach I choose depends on the dog’s environment and what works best for the owner.

• The type of walk you do with your dog reflects what sort of mood or mindset you want to convey.
• Dogs have different states of mind that they live in, and each type of walk is better suited for teaching specific things related to those mindsets.
• Different types of walks are used for different situations,  and the overall goal should be for your pup to learn how to happily pay attention and follow commands.
• We establish what type of walk we are on by how we make use of the leash.
• Create clearly defined criteria for each type of walk you offer. Have a variety of walks to choose from and rotate between on your outings: a structured one, a potty break, an easy-going stroll, and a full freedom experience!
• Speed and Direction Changes – basic tune-up drills allow us to manage our dog’s attention,  as well as strengthen our leash skills before walking for long distances. Examples:  “Green light/ Red light”,  “U-turn & Sit”, and “Pull to Heel”.
• In the first stages of training to walk, do not let the dog trail in front or free walk as your main way of walking. We need structure and calm focus before we give away too much of a good thing. You will later allow your dog to roam or walk in front of you, first teach, leash pressure, commands and markers.
• We don’t expect an automatic heel or name it when we first start; this is an advanced behavior that is worthwhile having your dog learn in steps.
• Start practicing Heeling in a low-distraction area where the dog is already relaxed and attentive to you; this will encourage them to enjoy and expect good things when heeling. Rewarding them for randomly offering the “Heel” position is a great way to start!

Mindset and Patience

• Relax and enjoy the process, it takes time to teach your dog the skills. Mindset and patience are key to a successful foundation.
• When teaching new things, take your time, and do it when you are both in the right mindset. 
• As simple as this is, it takes a lot of repetition. Each exercise needs to be done consistently.
• Don’t worry if your pup has difficulty mastering a task – mistakes are not the end of the world! Simply come back to practice it again at another time.
• Your dog needs a leader, not a drill sergeant.  Remember to reward successes with treats, and praise.
• Take note of what might spark your dog’s reaction or interest. By assessing your dog according to the 3 E’s: engagement, environment, and energy level you can tailor their walk accordingly and reduce stress!
• Walks provide more than just physical activity for your pup; they can be an incredibly rewarding experience if managed in the right way. Don’t let distance or a lack of novelty prevent you from making it as enjoyable and meaningful as possible!
• Keep your attention on the task at hand; when you get sidetracked, utilize sloppy techniques and resort to extreme or rushed methods, it can result in undesirable circumstances, and complicate matters for the future.

Length of Training sessions

• Make sure to spend at least 10 minutes a day, three times a day, walking with your pup until they become an expert in the exercise. Once that’s achieved, amp up the time and distance of their walks while also introducing distractions along the way.
• If, during your first stage of training with your pup, you need to take them for a walk and can’t enforce the methods that you have agreed on between each other – use alternative tools such as harnesses to not reverse what has already been learnt.
• Don’t wait for your dog to get bored or tired before the session ends. Always end it on a high note with a jackpot reward!

Dog Walks Require a Leader

• Dogs need guidance and direction in order to flourish. Demonstrating leadership is a surefire way of showing your pup the utmost love, while simultaneously helping alleviate any anxiety, fearfulness, reactivity, or aggression they may be experiencing.
• As the leader of your dog’s pack, you must embody qualities such as mindfulness, kindness, firmness, and assurance.
• Allowing your dog to take charge in an overwhelming and disorienting world can result in undesirable behaviors and emotional states.
• By taking on a compassionate and deliberate approach, leaders can greatly reduce tensions within their team – including the four-legged members. Assigning tasks or duties to your pup is an excellent way to give them purpose and build trust.
• To lead your dog and respect their level of understanding and obedience, always keep the 3C’s, D’s, and E’s in mind.
• During walks, the aim is to keep our energy calm before moving forward, especially towards something the dog wants
• Most importantly, Quality over Quantity. When it comes to walking your dog, don’t stress about the distance covered — focus on enjoying quality time with them instead. Quality over quantity; it’s all about sticking to your new agreements and enjoying the process. Focus on the intentions with your leash communication instead of the distance of the walk. 

Leash Communication and Cues

• Leash cues are tactile cues for communication; when it is conditioned correctly, walks become very enjoyable.
• Start inside your home by associating the leash as a tool for communication and connection instead of only for exciting and rowdy outings.
• By practicing inside your home, you are setting your dog up for success before you start training walks in high distraction areas. Use leash cues to tune your dog up prior to walks (reward heavily).
• If you don’t practice in low-distraction areas with success and ease, you’ll always struggle in higher distraction areas.

Examples of Leash Cues:

• Leash taps are a great way to get your dog’s attention. I always ensure that my dogs make eye contact or move towards me after two quick “tap-taps” on the leash, which helps foster communication and engagement between us.
• Tension on the leash will teach your dog to come back closer and understand that when they reach the end of their leash, movement stops. This is an effective way for training your pup!
• Pressure upwards – We will teach your dog that when we pull on the collar and encourage it is another cue for “Sit”.

How to use Rewards for Walking

• Hand Feeding- To help your pup learn during walking sessions, hand feed while using the 3 E’s, 3 C’s, and 3 Ds training formulas.
• When first teaching new things, reward both randomly for parts of the behavior being offered and for a combination of behaviors. Later we will add them together into a command(ex: “heel,” “fetch”)
• For best results, it is recommended that you feed your dog by hand daily for a minimum of a month to increase their understanding of each step. As they become more comfortable with each exercise slowly add steps between marking/rewarding behavior as needed.
• Randomly reward your dog for checking in on you, we are aiming to get them to do the same when it nears any other dogs, distractions, or potential triggers, so ensure to check in with them and reward their calm behavior.
• Become a human slot machine that randomly rewards known commands/behaviors.

Changes to Stop Pulling

• Give leash cues significance so that your pup will want to check in on them! Tap the lead or use verbal commands right before directional changes and ensure you are always providing timely praise when they’re doing it correctly.
• Leash pulling = stop moving, walk when the collar is not tight. Evertime your dog starts tugging on its leash, don’t move an inch and wait for them to calm down. Don’t continue walking until you feel no tension in the collar or leash anymore.
• If the dog pulls you 1000 times, stop 1001 times. When the dog stays on the agreed criteria, then we get to explore more.
• U-TURNS for speed change and engagement, if you turn into them; it will slow them down. If you turn away from them, it will speed them up. This will keep their attention on you and where you are moving towards.
• Never permit your pup to pull you when being walked on a collar, even if it isn’t during training. When I need a quick walk or exercise for a dog that isn’t trained to walk politely, I use a harness.
• For the initial few months, try to stay away from on-leash greetings. Condition your dog that when they are on the leash, you expect them to remain calm and attentive towards their handler.
• While it is completely natural for a pup to become distracted, the most important aspect of training your dog is that they make smart choices, If you know they won’t respond the way you want, keep a leash on them and guide them.

• If the dog keeps forgetting that you are at the other end of the leash, go back to practicing structured walks with fewer distractions. If it’s pulling towards something you approve for them to check out, ask for a “Sit” and eye contact when they start pulling. In the long run, this teaches dogs to control their impulses and ask us for approval of the things they are curious about. 

Distraction Zones  and Outings 

• Every pup has different reactions to various things, so by being mindful of their distraction zones, you can guide them more effectively while minimizing corrections.
• Begin with minimal interruptions. If the pup struggles to stay focused at home, why take it out during practice?
• Maintain a respectful distance from other dogs and people, limit your exchanges with them, and focus on finding the right methods and distance to keep your dog present with you.
• If your dog exhibits signs of constant apprehension or disorientation, remove them from the situation and make a plan to slowly address your goal.
• Sidewalks can be boring for dogs. But you can make it more fun by using the environment as an obstacle course. Ask your dog to weave through objects, jump on and off things, look through plants to find hidden food or toys, do random combinations of commands, and use their favorite toy as a reward. This will help build a stronger bond between you and your dog and help them stay coordinated and socialized.

Rewards for speed and excitement:

• If you want to get the dog to quickly and happily obey your commands, there are a few strategies that you can try.
•  When teaching the behavior, reward with verbal praise or a low-value reward any time the dog offers the behavior. Only offer a jackpot, high-value treats, or excess rewards until the dog complies with the first time that you say the command. 
• Another reliable technique, that takes a bit more skill is to only give a command when the dog’s focus and enthusiasm for receiving an exciting reward (such as play or high-value treats) are at their peak.
• Once you’ve achieved the desired outcome through reinforcement, expand your training toolbox to facilitate more clear communication and speed up corrections.

Conclusion

Consistency is key when training your dog to walk calmly by your side. reward-based positive reinforcement will be most successful in getting your pup to listen and obey commands during walks. Start with short, low-distraction walks and gradually increase the difficulty as your dog masters each level – before you know it, both you and your furry friend will be confidently strolling around the block!